The regulator is one of the things that hails back to the start of watch making, alongside historical items like pocket watches. It’s nothing new that mechanical watches can be seen as something of an anachronism these days, but a big part of the reason they remain so successful is the “soul” that draws us in. There are other other types of movements (or devices, for that matter) that simply do a better job when it comes to accuracy and robustness, but for me, it’s the fascination of the tiny, purpose-built machine working away to give me information on demand. The regulator stands as a testament to watchmaking, and Chronoswiss has always made sure to keep true to the type, with their latest, the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator, refreshing the design.
Regulator watches are funny things. While they had their place mostly in the ateliers of days gone by, used for regulating the watches being worked on, the basic premise works well in a modern setting on your wrist. A large central minute hand gives you the minutes at a glance, while smaller dials for hours and seconds stand in the background until you actually need to know that information. That, of course, is the basic design we have with the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator, with the brand’s C.122 movement doing the heavy lifting. Chronoswiss has kept an eye on the regulator watch ever since their beginning, so how did they refresh this design?
Perhaps the case? Well, no, not here – the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator keeps the case to something that fits in with the rest of their lineup, with its coin-edge sides and onion crown. Perhaps the overall layout? Well, no the very concept of a regulator sort of dictates how things are positioned. That leaves us, then, with the dial itself. While we at times will point out smaller details that add dimensionality to a dial, the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator really does take things in a very three-dimensional direction. At the lowest level, you have a guilloche dial, which in and of itself gives some subtle dimensionality. Then, floated over that, which is where I am guessing the flying part of the name comes from, you have the rest of the dial.
Regulator watches are amusing things. While they had their place mostly in the ateliers of yesteryear, used for regulating the watches being worked on, the simple assumption works nicely in a modern setting on your wrist. A large central minute hand gives you the moments at a glance, whereas smaller dials for hours and seconds stand in the desktop until you truly need to know that info. That, naturally, is the fundamental design we’ve with all the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator, with all the brand’s C.122 movement doing the heavy lifting. Chronoswiss has kept an eye on the regulator view since their beginning, so how can they refresh this design?Perhaps exactly the case? Well, not here – the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator retains the situation to something that fits in with the rest of their lineup, with its coin-edge sides and onion crown. Maybe the overall design? Well, no the idea of a regulator sort of dictates how things are positioned. While we sometimes will point out smaller details which add dimensionality to a dial, the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator really does take matters in a very three-dimensional direction. At the lowest level, you own a guilloche dial, which in and of itself provides some subtle dimensionality. Then, floated over that, which is really where I am guessing the flying part of this title comes from, you have the remainder of the dial.In some ways, the top deck of the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator is almost like a skeletonized dialup, only with the ability to see more dial in lieu of a movement throughout the cutouts. The top deck comprises the chapter ring, where the minutes are indicated, in addition to the registers for its two sub-dials, that have up the hours top and seconds below.
In some ways, the upper deck of the Chronoswiss Jumping Hour Replica Sirius Flying Regulator is almost like a skeletonized dial, just with the ability to see more dial instead of a movement through the cutouts. The upper deck consists of the chapter ring, where the minutes are indicated, as well as the registers for the two sub-dials, which have the hours up top and seconds below. With the hands needing to be slightly above those surfaces and the minute hand needing to clear them all, one concern might be the overall height of the watch. Thankfully, that should not be an issue with the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator, as its overall case height is noted as being a mere 12mm. No, it will not win awards for thinness, but considering all the layers and the space needed for an automatic rotor, that height is no small feat.
In total, there will be six different variations of the Chronoswiss Sirius Flying Regulator released. At the top end of the range, there is an 18ct red gold case with either a silver or black dial, a DLC-coated steel case with a black or blue dial and the entry-level model in a steel case with blue or silver dial. At this point, only the base model in steel has an announced price, at 6,810 CHF. All of these are interesting options in their own right. While I cannot deny the appeal of a black dial paired with a red gold case, the winner here for me is the galvanic blue dial in the steel case. This just speaks to me of an everyday practicality, which really is what a regulator watch can, and should, be viewed as. The design may not be for everyone, but this is what I would consider an ambitious way to refresh a rather venerable style. chronoswiss.com
Tech Specs from Chronoswiss
- Solid red gold or stainless steel case, satin finish and polished, bezel with side knurling and curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal, screw-down case back with satin finish and flat sapphire crystal, onion crown, water resistance up to 3 bar, strap holders screwed down with patented Autobloc system
- Ø 40 mm, height 12 mm
- Chronoswiss manufacture calibre C.122
- Diameter: Ø 26.80 mm / Ø 26.40 mm (11 ¾´´)
- Height: 5.30 mm
- Jewels: 30
- Balance: Glucydur, three-legged
- Balance Spring: Nivarox I
- Fine adjustment: Index via eccentric cam Shock protection Incabloc
- Stroke rate: 3 Hz., 21,600 A/h (oscillations)
- Power reserve: Approx. 45 hours
- Finish: Rhodinised or gold-plated, skeletonised rotor with Geneva Stripes, ball bearing mounted; circular-grained plate; bridges with Geneva Stripes and circular-grained offsets; gold-plated engraving and jewel settings; polished lever, escape wheel and screws
Prices start at about $3,800. Besides this Balance Chronograph, this was the coolest Chronoswiss Ch-8323 Replica opinion that I watched at Baselworld 2011. No official details yet, therefore I will have to infer a little the specs. Among those things you will see is that not too many watches have this exact big day and power reserve layout. For a moment I believed that Chronoswiss was changing a base ETA motion, but then I understood they were using something more standard.A couple of years back ETA introduced the 2896 automatic movement. These are still uncommon to find in watches, but it is a trendy movement. Chronoswiss was not the only brand I discovered using this motion this season, Bell & Ross also includes a new BR01 using all the 2896 automatic.More and more I’m becoming a huge fan of the Chronoswiss Timemaster collection. The daring aviator looks are classic and masculine. Very retro, but in a good way. Many men can pull off this look in my own opinion. The standard Timemaster instance is 44mm broad, and here in two endings. First is brushed and polished steel, but there is also (I am pretty sure) a DLC black coated version. If not DLC then PVD. While the case is 44mm, the large onion style crown sticks out a couple more millimeters.One of their best design attributes on the dial would be that the design of this power reserve indicator. These often appear like half circles are fa-shaped. This look never seems to look good on a dial. What Chronoswiss did is give it an almost circular look by extending it as much as possible and adding text around the borders. This gives it a more balance look that does not leave odd shapes on the dial.
- Dial: Guilloche base with “flying” sub-dial floating above screwed plinths, galvanised in different colour combinations
- Handset: Shape Poire Losange; curved and either thermally blued, gold-plated or lacquered depending on the model
- Strap: Louisiana alligator leather or embossed calfskin