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Panerai Replica Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio Watch Ref. PAM 627

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Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio (ref. PAM 627)

During the 26th Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH 2016,) the Italian brand has presented a number of new Panerai Radiomir 1940 3Days GMT Acciaio replica watches. Among them was this gorgeous (but in a very modest way) Panerai Radiomir 1940 3Days GMT Acciaio (ref. PAM 627) automatic wrist watch that features their brand new Caliber P.4001 movement with micro-rotor design.When it comes to generating “impressions”, Officine Panerai (perhaps, together with Breitling and also Rolex) is the most predictable one.

Although the watchmaker didn’t dare to steep too far away from the time-proven design that Radiomir collection is known for, the watch still looks fresh and attractive thanks to the waffle-style dial finish that they, unfortunately, use only on a very limited number of models.

 

Overall Impression

Like an old bluesman who has finally found his the note and keeps using it time and again looking condescendingly at a young aspiring guitarist shredding all over the fingerboard trying to make an impression on listeners, Panerai seems to be quite content with just two or three of their iconic designs that never fail to generate a hell of a cash flow that most players in the field can only dream about.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio (ref. PAM 627, sapphire back, angle)

Their Panerai PAM00627 replica watches almost always look impeccably beautiful in their own rugged kind of way, with only a few references standing out of the crowd when the brand wants to stray a step or two off the beaten path and do a brief improvisation over the same flawless progression that, being as repetitive as it is, sometimes leaves you with a dry mouth.

 

Case & Strap

The case… Well, there is not much to say about the case. Crafted from 316L stainless steel alloy, it measures 45 millimeters in diameter: quite massive even by today’s standards, but not excessively so: just enough to make a statement, you know.

This particular example is a nice illustration of their behavior. While this new PAM 627 includes all the usual elements you expect from Panerai like the cushion-shaped case, easily recognizable font for Arabic numerals and their sword-shaped hour and minute hands, the dial still looks quite interesting thanks to its unusual texture. And if the front side is not enough to justify the model’s hefty price, there is a lot to look at through the sapphire case back cover: the movement, while Spartan in its finish, is real treat for an experienced connoisseur.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio (ref. PAM 627, sapphire back)

Of course, some people actually like when their watch has a sort of dominating presence on their hands, so I can’t really say that size is the problem here. If your wrist measures less than seven inches in girth, you may be in trouble since the timepiece may occupy the whole width of your wrist and then some. It is all very personal, you know.The lug-to-lug dimensions of this thing are another story though.

As far as the shape goes, it is the standard “cushion” that Panerai watches are usually associated with. Looking at its elegant curves and unimpeachably polished surface, you will immediately understand why the Italian watchmaker puts such an impressive price tag on their timepieces: there is simply no way for you to find a cushion-shaped timekeeper that would be able to look as graceful, yet smart as this one.

As for the crown, it is a bit short for my tastes, but it still provides good enough grip in order to manipulate the hands.

The calfskin Monte Carlo strap that comes with this watch as standard and features a contrasting beige stitching is perhaps one of the best things you could get in this price range, so this is also a big “plus” if you still contemplate buying this timekeeper.

 

Dial

While Panerai are known for their sandwich-style dial consisting of two plates with a thick layer of Superluminova spread generously between them, they sometimes experiment with other styles and textures, including carbon fiber.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days GMT Automatic Acciaio (ref. PAM 627, front view)

This one, for example, features their “Paris hobnail” chocolate bar-style pattern with all luminous elements simply painted on the highly textured face.

As usual, the dial features three luminous Arabic numerals, a small date window, and a 24-hour second time zone indicator that is combined with a small seconds display at 9 o’clock. If that wasn’t enough, there is another GMT pointer with the familiar arrow-shaped head that displays current home time on the main chapter ring. In order to increase the timekeeper’s readability, Panerai has covered all five hands with the aforementioned Superluminova luminous compound.

Unfortunately, the sub-dial at 9 hours as well as the plaque at 12 o’clock make the dial look a bit unbalanced as the calendar and smaller “Automatic” inscription at 6 o’clock are simply too small to be adequate “supporting actors”, but, well, I think I can live with that.

The beige-colored mix may not be as strikingly contrast as white, however, against the black background of the textured dial, it serves its main function almost as perfectly and, when it comes to sheer esthetics, looks ten thousand times better giving the watch an even more expensive appearance.

With so many details, the dial may not look as impressive as that of the last year’s Radiomir Ceramic PAM643 with its clearly seen parallels with tactical timekeepers that are still very popular among enthusiasts, but, if you, like me, are a bit tired with their trademark design, it may be a very welcome change.

All things considered, I give this high-contrast, easy to read dial five points out of possible five when it comes to legibility in all situations that I can imagine.

Mechanism

The mechanism that powers this specimen is the new Caliber P.4001 self-winding movement. It is based on their own Caliber P.4000 that features an off-centered micro-rotor design and utilizes two barrel to store enough energy to power the watch for whole two days.

Panerai Caliber P.4001

Compared to the base unit, this one is a bit more complex featuring a second time zone functionality and a power reserve indicator (the latter is placed on the three-quarter plate of the mechanism and is visible only through the timekeeper’s sapphire back, some people may find the design not very convenient.) The extra functions increased the total parts count to 278 although the number of jewels remains the same 31.

From the point of view of design, the mechanism somehow reminds me micro-rotor calibers made by Glashutte Original, but, of course, features a more Spartan finish, which is limited to very fine machine brushing on the plate and balance bridge, and a nicer, but still engraved by a skilled hand of a robot, oscillating weight that carries nothing more, but the brand’s logo. Although the finish is lot more modest than most luxury watchmakers try to impress you with, I would say that it still matches the timekeeper’s laconic styling in the best way possible.

As it is often the case in this class of mechanisms, the Caliber P.4001 features a so called “hacking seconds” function, which basically means that the small seconds hand will jump to “zero” position as soon as you pull the crown in order to set correct time. Another useful feature is the ability to adjust local time in one-hour increments without affecting the minute hand.

Panerai Caliber P.4001 (fragment, power reserve indicator)

Pricing & Availability

There is still no official info regarding the timekeeper’s international availability. As for the price, the MSRP is reported to be as high as $11,700 USD. Also, given the timekeeper’s easily recognizable styling that is almost impossible to compare to any similarly priced models from other brands that are currently available on the market, the tag on this thing seems to be completely justified.

See also: Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chrono Monopulsante 8 Days GMT Oro Bianco (PAM 503)

Photos: Panerai

WWR preliminary verdict

Originality 4.5/5
Build quality: 5/5
Usability: 5/5
Legibility: 5/5
Value for money: 4.5/5

Panerai Radiomir 1940 3Days GMT Automatic Acciaio (ref. PAM 627) watch specification

Price: $11,700 (MSRP)
Movement: Automatic, Caliber P.4001, in-house, 278 parts, micro-rotor, two barrels, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 31
Movement frequency: 28,800 vph
Power reserve: 72 hours
Movement decoration: Brushed three-quarter plate and balance bridge, polished screw heads, branded oscillating weight
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT, power reserve
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Matches case
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Cushion
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 45.00 mm
Case height: No data
Lug width: 24/22 mm
Dial: Black, Paris hobnails pattern
Numerals: Arabic, luminous
Hour markers: Luminous
Hands: Polished, luminous
Water resistance: 100 meters
Strap: Calf Monte Carlo Black leather strap
Crystal: Sapphire
Case back: Sapphire

While a bit steep considering current turmoil on financial markets, it is not terribly unusual for best quality Panerai replica watch that has a reputation of an expensive brand.

Swiss Made Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic Replica Watch Ref. 41034

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Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic (Ref. 41034)

Presented earlier this year at Baselworld 2016, the new replica Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 automatic wristwatch (ref. 41034) looks like a faithful recreation of a classic model that was sold by the brand back in 1950s. Although the Swiss watchmaking brand Eberhard & Co. has always tried to play it safe when it came to industrial design, they seem to always have had a thing for being original.

Offering you a nice combination of a robust Swiss movement, adequate water resistance rating of 300 meters, and an elegant exterior, the watch seems to be mildly overpriced, but will probably be quite successful in the long run when all sorts of discounts and rebates kick in.

 

Overall Impression

While most of their timekeepers were never as radical as, for example, their Chrono4 line of sporty chronographs that featured four linearly positioned sub-dials, they were never generic either. Offering a sort of homage to a classic line that wouldn’t look like yet another Submariner-lookalike wasn’t that difficult after all.

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic (Ref. 41034) wallpaper

Still, there clearly is a huge spike of interest in all things vintage and, for a smaller brand like Swiss made Eberhard & Co. watch replica letting this wave to just dissipate was not an option: you have to ride the wave, not ignore it in order to stay afloat. Luckily, their timekeepers from the 1950s and 1960s, too, had a character of their own, although -let’s be honest about that- by no means revolutionary.

The new watch clearly looks a bit classier than the original thanks to better finish of the stainless steel case, more refined bezel with black ceramic inlay and more comfortable (although optional) steel bracelet. Still, from where I stand, it is clearly overpriced: not terribly so, but you will probably still need to find a good deal before buying one in order not to lose too much money when time comes to let it go.

If price is not an issue, however, this watch may very well become a very nice choice if you don’t want to put yet another Seamaster in your stable.

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic diving wristwatch (Ref. 41034)

Case & Strap

 

Even by today’s standards the stainless steel case is not too big although some may find its long lugs not particularly convenient since they easily increase the timekeeper’s overall length by approximately ten millimeters to some 53 mm from lug to lug. If you happen to own a narrower wrist, you are in trouble. However, if you happen to be of more of an average build or even wider in the bones department, the watch should probably fit quite nicely although I can’t call its profile especially well-sculpted.

Compared with the original, the 2016 Scafograf 300 ref. 41034 is just a hair larger measuring just 43 millimeters in diameter and 12.60 from convex sapphire top to engraved stainless steel bottom.

It is interesting that the older Scafograf 300 from the 1950s didn’t have (and probably even didn’t need) a helium escape valve on its case. Although I can’t really call the part a ‘gimmick’, I would probably have called it an overkill simply because this is clearly not a professional diving tool and, truth be told, I can hardly imagine an owner of this definitely luxury timekeeper to often find himself (or herself, let’s not be misogynistic here) in a situation of peril where an extremely fast decompression would justify an introduction of the contraption.

 

As usual, the watch comes on a standard 21 mm wide black rubber band that gives the watch an even sportier (and also more modern) appearance. Yet, it can also be had on an optional stainless steel “Chassis” bracelet that looks quite similar to the original bracelet that the 1950s model was offered on. Please note that, while the bracelet comes with the brand’s patented “Declic” deployment clasp as standard, the rubber band is equipped with a lot less comfortable (and probably less secure if you indeed plan to use this watch as a diving companion) steel pin buckle: the aforementioned deployment clasp comes here as a more or less expensive option.

On the other hand, the extra part at least, um, partly justifies the timekeeper’s recommended retail price, which is nothing less than outrageous all things considered.

As far as ergonomics is concerned, the watch excels in all departments starting with the winding/setting crown that is easy to operate even if you happen to have a set of stubby fingers and finishing with the unidirectional rotating bezel with nicely finished notches that are wide and deep enough to provide solid grip without any sort of discomfort. The luminescent markers on the first 15 minutes of the diving scale (including the stylized triangle at “00”,) too, help a great deal when you need to use the simple timer in a place where there is just isn’t enough light (and in these sort of places you usually don’t want to find yourself with your oxygen tank depleted.)

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic diving wristwatch (Ref. 41034, black dial, blue accents)

Dial

I have an impression that some fifty years ago when rock was hard, cars were deadly, and tool watches were, well, tools, people were less obsessed with what sort of personal statement they would like to make by changing a timekeeper’s original strap for something ‘aftermarket’. Manufacturers, likewise, weren’t too busy looking for a piece of scrap metal that was used as a part of hull of some doomed ship or a fighter jet, but were mostly trying to create -again- a tool that would be good at doing its job. Making it more stylish and more interesting probably helped to sell more of them, but functionality and usability was clearly a primary target for most designers.

Compared to the original model that had its “main” markers at 6, 9 and 12 o’clock longer than other eight, the new one seems to have aligned the indexes in a more uniform fashion. Some may call the new layout more sober, some may call it duller. Looking at both, I am starting to think that I am probably with those who think that the older design was a tad more interesting: I think I like its somewhat imbalanced appearance.

Also, I don’t really dig the tiny yellow (and they are also available in blue and white matching the color of the central seconds hand) dots over the hour markers: they don’t add anything in terms of legibility and, fighting for your attention with other elements, even have a detrimental effect on your ability to read time.

The original Scafograf series is a good example here. What it offered was a matt black dial with all three hands just wide enough to be easily read in any circumstances and simple enough to be produced on an industrial scale at a minimum cost. Surprisingly, they also looked extremely well (maybe it’s because we tend to like all things that are designed to do their job in the most efficient way, not just overwhelm us with complex shapes and exquisite decor.)

Yes, the layout was as simple as it was functional and the only thing where it lacked (and what the new model has inherited) was the absence of a fish eye lens over the small date window: although the indicator is clearly not the most important element of the whole display, it would still be a lot easier to read if there was a small magnifying glass over the calendar aperture.

Besides these small annoyances, I would say that the dial of the new timekeeper is indeed quite good when it comes to readability: the original design was so great that it was indeed quite difficult to ruin it with those timid attempts to make things look fresher.

 

Mechanism

This is, perhaps, the most boring part of this review. If you were expecting the watch to be powered by an in-house caliber with specs even slightly above the ordinary, you will probably be disappointed.

Like dozens and even hundreds of other Swiss made three-handers from all sorts of brands out there, this model is animated by the well-known ETA 2824-2 blank caliber. Featuring an okay automatic winding system, being built on 25 jewels, and having its balance wheel beating at a standard rate of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, this is a movement of choice for a brand that aims to make a reliable timekeeper that would be easy to service in any part of the world and that would also be relatively inexpensive and easy to obtain in great numbers.

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic (Ref. 41034, engraved back)

Again, the movement is as robust and reliable as it is boring and uninteresting. Like a true workhorse, it gets the job done, but, after your honeymoon with the new watch is over, won’t get a lot of attention besides the scheduled maintenance. Probably, that’s precisely why Eberhard & Co. decided to hide the blank movement behind the solid screw-down case back cover (that and, probably, the fact that the original model, too, has had a solid back.) Well, at least the screw-down back is engraved with a stylized star fish, although the finish is clearly not that impressive if your idea of a “nice” finish is closer to that of an Omega Seamaster, a Certina DS Action Diver or even their very own Scafodat 500 (Ref. 41025) back from 2013.

As far as I understand, the mechanism comes sans any sort of modifications or upgrades. However, in this price range the calibers are usually more thoroughly regulated to increase their ability to keep good time compared to those installed in cheaper timekeepers. Frankly, I don’t know whether Eberhard & Co. did invest time and money into fine-tuning the caliber, but they’d better did, since this is indeed quite an expensive timekeeper for what it is.

Pricing & Availability

 

Again, I have an impression that the watch is lamentably overpriced. Even despite the fact that you can get yourself the aforementioned Certina DS Action Diver automatic three-hander that is powered by the same blank caliber and is still available for something like two fifths of the MSRP, this “homage” is simply less interesting while being more expensive than the absolutely gorgeous Longines Heritage Legend diver that looks more original, is powered by a superior version of the same caliber and, for good measure, retails for about €300 less.

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic (Ref. 41034, front)

See also: Alpina Seastrong Diver Heritage Automatic (refs. AL-525S4H6 & AL-525G4H6)

Photos: Eberhard & Co.

WWR preliminary verdict

Originality 4/5
Build quality: 5/5
Usability: 4.5/5
Legibility: 4/5
Value for money: 3.5/5

Eberhard & Co. Scafograf 300 Automatic (Ref. 41034) watch specification

Price: €2490 (MSRP)
Winding: Automatic
Movement: ETA 2824-2, Swiss Made
Number of jewels: 25
Movement frequency: 28,800
Power reserve: 38 hours
Movement decoration: No data
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Case material: Stainless steel
Bezel material: Stainless steel with ceramic inlay
Crown material: Matches case
Case shape: Round
Bezel shape: Round
Case size: 43.00 mm
Case height: 12.60 mm
Lug width: 21 mm
Dial: Matt Black
Numerals: None
Hour markers: Applied, luminous
Hands: Steel, luminous
Water resistance: 300 meters
Strap: Black rubber strap, branded with stainless steel buckle (Optional “Declic” deployment clasp) / Stainless steel “Chassis” bracelet with “Declic” deployment clasp
Crystal: Sapphire, convex, antireflective
Case back: Solid, engraved

Talking about expensive stuff, the cheap Price Eberhard & Co. replica watch will retail for some €2490 (MSRP, will vary in different parts of the world depending on local taxes and customs duties) and will be available in specialized stores later this year.

Closer Look At the Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Replica Watch

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A week is a long time in horology. Or is it?

Self-confessed Armin Strom One Week Skeleton replica watch addict, Angus Davies, gets ‘hands-on’ and reviews the One Week Air and marvels at its exalted finish.However, the statement will forever be indelibly linked with the world of politics and its sentiment remains clear.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

In the hallowed corridors of Westminster Palace, a promising career may be irrevocably extinguished within a week. Conversely, a relatively unknown backbencher can come to prominence and secure a ministerial role in a matter of a few days.

When it comes to horology, a week is also a long time. To produce a watch replica with a 7-day power reserve is no small feat, yet it is clearly within the capabilities of Swiss Manufacture, Armin Strom.

Former British Prime Minister, Harold Wilson reputedly said, ‘A week is a long time in politics’. Later, when interviewed, Wilson could not recollect making the statement and it may have been wrongly attributed to him.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Armin Strom One Week Fire

The Armin Strom One Week replica watch is available in four variants, Earth, Water, Fire and Air. Until recently, the latter version has always been my least favourite version of the model line, primarily because I could not come to terms with wearing a watch replica with a white strap. The hue of the strap appeared a tad effeminate to my eyes. Moreover, I have always liked the golden tones of its sibling, the One Week Fire.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

But, whilst visiting the Manufacture in Biel / Bienne in June, I placed a One Week Air upon my wrist sporting an alternative grey coloured strap. Its appearance has been transformed. The mid-grey strap augments the purity of the dial and has enticed me to write about the wondrous charms of this timepiece.

The dial

Part of the allure of Armin Strom is the use of open-worked dials. These are watches for enthusiasts who derive pleasure from horological voyeurism. I concede, I fall into this category and some time ago I succumbed to the charms of the Armin Strom Gravity Water, a watch replica I could never bare to be parted from.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The open-worked dial surface of the Armin Strom One Week Air provides a fascinating vista, where wheels and rubies provide an exquisitely artistic scene. The brushed bridges shown on the dial provide a wonderful foil for the resplendently gleaming hand beveled edges to coquettishly entice my middle-aged eyes closer.

The bold luminescent hour and minute hands effortlessly communicate with the wearer with clear and crisp diction. The hands interface with an off-centre chapter ring which is biased to the westerly flank of the dial, providing sufficient room for the cartouche, positioned adjacent the crown.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Located at 9 o’clock, a subdial features. It has a small seconds display around its periphery and a power reserve indicator at its centre.

The case

The case is constructed of titanium and measures 43.40mm with a case height of 13.00mm. These dimensions are in common with several other Armin Strom models, including the Gravity, Tourbillon, Manual and Pure.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

I know from personal experience with the Gravity that the watch replica proves to be exceedingly comfortable to wear. Moreover, the horn-back alligator leather strap becomes increasingly malleable with extended use, further enhancing wearer comfort.

The movement

The hand-wound Armin Strom Calibre ARM-09 is a wonderful exemplar of haute horlogerie with commensurate finishing and is freely disclosed via the exhibition caseback.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Circular Côtes de Genève is much in evidence. However, it is when one scrutinises this motif beneath a loupe, that its fantastic execution can truly be discerned. Each stripe is beautifully defined with consistent strokes. Nothing appears amiss, everything is refined to a state of perfection.

Armin Strom One Week Air - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

The functional aspects of the Calibre ARM-09 are equally impressive. The double going barrel delivers an impressive power reserve of 168 hours. The escape wheel and pallets are made of massive gold with hardened areas. The watch replica features a screwed balance, equipped with a Breguet overcoil.

The balance bridge is pristinely presented with peerless petit perlage. The gear-train bridge is hand-engraved with a stylised depiction of air, skilfully imparted with deft hand and burin. Armin Strom produces contemporary timepieces while continuing to embrace traditional craftsmanship synonymous with the words ‘Swiss Made’.

The no-compromise specification is endless  causing me to feel an overwhelming sense of admiration for the talented team at Armin Strom.

Closing remarks

The One Week Air throws up an interesting thought. Its power reserve may be lengthy, but the skills required to create such elevated horology take even longer to aquire.

On reflection, a week in politics may be a long time, but to create horology of this matchless standard is far more protracted. Indeed, based on the extended time it takes to create one timepiece, perhaps a week in the world of horology is not a long time after all.

Technical Specification

  • Model: Armin Strom One Week Skeleton
  • Reference: TI10-WA.11
  • Case: Titanium; diameter 43.40 mm; height 13.00 mm; water resistant to 5 bar (50 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; power-reserve indicator.
  • Movement: Calibre ARM09, hand-wound movement; frequency 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz); 34 jewels; power reserve 7 days; 146 parts.
  • Strap: Grey horn-back alligator leather strap supplied on a titanium pin buckle as well as an additional grey or white rubber strap. A titanium double fold clasp is available at additional cost.
  • Limited Edition: 100 pieces

I have an addictive personality which extends to collecting watches. Mens Fake Armin Strom watch reminds me of a delicious box of Swiss chocolates, once you have tasted the delights of one, you just want more!

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds Replica Watch for Sale Ref. 1142 C CS RG

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Angus Davies provides an in-depth review of the rose gold Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds replica watch, winner of the GPHG Men’s Watch Prize. Bearing the word ‘Chronometer’ on the dial, this is the first wristwatch to feature a detent escapement within.

Urban Jurgensen

On the contrary, my adoration for my wife has grown more profound with the onset of years.There has only ever been Heidi for me. I met her when I was 18 years of age and she was ‘sweet sixteen’. My love for her has never abated despite the passage of time.

In contrast, whilst lying in my bed, I look across at my wife, Heidi, and watch replica her quietly sleeping, peaceful and relaxed. My mind whirrs, thinking a myriad of thoughts at break-neck speed.I am hopeless at sleeping. Quite simply, I just can’t manage to doze for more than a few hours.

She has always exhibited a purity to her appearance. Her brown button-like eyes continue to beguile me and the subtle lines, adjacent said eyes, reveal the wisdom she has acquired as a mother and business woman.As I look across the bed, I marvel at her face. In my opinion, her face is so pure, her allure so intense, she looks beautiful sans makeup.

On occasion, Heidi with subtle application of make-up, augments her natural beauty with tasteful wisdom. She does not mask any flaws, merely accentuating her appealing features. And so, it is with this thought in mind, that I was recently left dumb-struck by the matchless appearance of the Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

This watch replica exhibits a pure aesthetic, timeless and elegant, destined to be appreciated for generations to come. Housed within its comely 18-carat red gold case is a movement whose very creation is the epitome of refinement, acting like a metaphor for a brilliant intellect. However, similar to the subtle use of make-up, the appearance of the fine quality materials employed is enhanced with glorious guilloché work.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The Rose Gold replica Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds watch fuses ‘beauty and brains’ to sublime effect. In 2014, this handsome timepiece won the prestigious GPHG Men’s Watch Prize. Indeed, when the opportunity arose to become intimately acquainted with this golden skinned beauty, with delightfully defined features, I immediately accepted without any hesitation.

The dial

The hand engine-turned dial features a delightful barley-corn motif centre-stage. The traditional pattern has been magnificently executed by time-served hands without the merest hint of compromise. In contrast, a circlet of satiné circulaire populates the hour ring, providing a tasteful foil for the Roman numerals that indicate the hours.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Encircling the dial canvas is a chapter ring that wonderfully interfaces with both the minute hand and central sweep seconds hand, aiding interpretation.

 

This watch replica exhibits a peerless charm, quietly engaging with the wearer with seemly conduct. In a society which seems obsessed with celebrity and conspicuous consumption this watch replica thankfully avoids gauche and outré behaviour. This is a timepiece of impeccable breeding.

The diamond-finished hands require numerous hours of diligent hand craftsmanship to bring to fruition and are a key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The eye of the hour hand is a concentrically polished solid gold insert, held in place by the sheer accuracy of the fit. The hands are polished to a perfect mirror gloss, and thermally blued afterwards.

Positioned below noon, an arc-like power reserve indicator imparts the status of the energy held within the twin barrels.

The case

The 42mm diameter case, formed of 18-carat red gold, is complex in form. The caseband is stepped, proving more protracted to create. However, seldom is excellence the outcome of expedience and the efforts of Urban Jürgensen appear justified.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The horns are tear-drop style, gently elongating the appearance of the watch, softly cradling the wrist and guiding the brown leather strap to cosset the arm.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Gracing the caseback is a sapphire crystal, allowing eyes to savour the finely executed UJS-P8 in-house movement.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The movement

Development of the UJS-P8 in-house movement commenced in 2003, taking eight years of research and investment to bring to fruition.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Under the aegis of its Danish owners, the ambition manifest by this Swiss company is incredible. To create a detent escapement for incorporation within a wristwatch is technically very challenging and the UJS-P8 is a world first and subject to worldwide patents.

A detent escapement, sometimes referred to as a ‘chronometer escapement’, was first implemented by John Arnold (1736 – 1799). This was a pivoted detent escapement. Later in 1782, both John Arnold and Thomas Earnshaw simultaneously invented the spring detent escapement.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Early examples of detent escapements featured on marine chronometers for navigational use. However, these were housed within gimbal mounted boxes which prevented the escapement being subjected to extreme shocks.

The difficulty with using detent escapements in a wristwatch is that, when subjected to day-to-day shocks they can trip or, worse still, become damaged.

The direct impulse on balance wheel from the escape wheel mitigates friction, resulting in extended service intervals. A detent escapement proves more accurate.You may wonder why Urban Jürgensen would choose to use a detent escapement in preference to a simpler Swiss lever escapement. The benefits are numerous. Moreover, the reduced ‘slide’ of the pallet jewels leads to reduced power consumption, hence the impressive power reserve of 72 hours.

The shock resistance was equally impressive with prototypes being subjected to 20,000 shocks and ‘extensive premature ageing processes to test long-term reliability.In 2011, eight years after it commenced its journey, Urban Jürgensen finally succeeded in serially producing the UJS-P8 in-house movement. The movement was able to pass tough Chronofiable® testing procedures, delivering accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Beyond the technical prowess of this movement, the flawless finissage is yet another reason for would-be purchasers to consider acquisition. The jewel sinks are superbly polished, the anglage is divine and the Côtes de Genève rayonnantes exhibit pulchritudinous aesthetics.

Closing remarks

 

However, despite the protracted production of this watch, with expert decoration of both the dial and the movement, there is a refreshing purity which reminds me of my wife.

Urban Jurgensen Central Seconds (Ref. 1142 C CS RG) - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Despite being husband and wife for 23 years, our marriage remains strong and is destined to endure for the rest of our lives. I suspect that a union with the Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds, based on its many qualities, may well confer similar longevity.

Technical Specification

  • Model: Urban Jürgensen Central Seconds
  • Reference: 1142 C CS RG
  • Case: 18-carat red gold; diameter 42.00 mm; height 12.00mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; central seconds; power-reserve indicator.
  • Movement: UJS-P8, hand-wound movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 25 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
  • Strap: Brown leather strap, presented on an 18-carat red gold pin buckle.
  • Price: CHF 49,000 excluding taxes (RRP as at 26.6.2015)

Further reading

  • Knudsen, John M.R. (2013). The Jürgensen Dynasty, Four centuries of watchmaking in two countries. Antique Collector’s Club Ltd

Each aspect of the Swiss Made Urban Jürgensen Replica Central Seconds reveals patient skill, carefully imparted with adroit hands. Every element of this watch replica is refined and breathtaking. In a world where compromise is ubiquitous, this timepiece proffers absolute perfection.

Best Quality Mens NOMOS Glashuette Ermine Replica Watch

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Angus Davies recently visited Top Quality NOMOS Glashuette replica watch and was seduced by a German beauty. Read his in-depth review of the Lux Ermine, presented in 18-carat gold and delivered in a charming tonneau-shaped case.Be still, my head has not been turned by a young filly, I only have eyes for one woman.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Recently, I was reminded of my initial encounter with Heidi as I fell under the spell of another beauty, this time from Saxony.

This is a watch replica which immediately proffers a lifetime of companionship. Sadly, when it comes to watches, I seem unable to be horologically monogamous, albeit this a personal character flaw rather than any failure of this particular timepiece. Indeed, the NOMOS Glashuette Ermine copy watch has all the qualities which confer years of faithful and loyal harmony.

I did not stick a chance. Once I caught the gaze of her chocolate brown eyes I had to introduce myself. Some thirty years later, I have enjoyed 23 years of marriage to my lovely wife Heidi and we have two delightful children to show for our union.

On this occasion, my charms were not required as a gorgeous timepiece was introduced to me by my kindly host in the atelier in Glashütte which I was touring at the time. The NOMOS Glashütte Lux Ermine is the gorgeous timepiece I refer to and within moments of making its acquaintance I contemplated a lifetime of union.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Nomos Glashutte Lux Weissgold Hell

 

 

Interestingly, I saw a sibling of this watch replica at SalonQP in 2013, the Lux Weissgold Hell and whilst I liked the watch replica at the time, it did not have the same profound effect on me as the Lux Ermine model. I have considered why this was the case. Perhaps it was merely a matter of the colour scheme or, maybe, it was because the seductive process ensued as I placed the Lux Ermine upon my wrist. I have a tendency to believe it may be the latter.

I have often found that it is only when watches are placed upon the arm that they can be truly appraised. There have been many occasions when I have marched into a retailer having seen an image of a watch, only to be disappointed when I have placed it on my hirsute wrist. Conversely, some watches which have slipped under my radar have later proved incredibly alluring once granted the opportunity to nuzzle my arm.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Placing the Lux Ermine upon my wrist, I felt the watch replica ensnare me with its comely smile and sensed an overwhelming compulsion to interact further with this newfound love.

The dial

The central dial of the Lux Ermine is a delightful cream colour, bestowing a sense of both innocence and maturity. The remaining area surrounding the dial is a muted grey, deferring to the central dial area in terms of prominence. This example of teutonic logic caused my eyes to be guided to the indications presented whilst proving eminently stylish. Moreover, the grey area of the dial provides an ingenious means of fusing the circular central dial area with the tonneau shaped case into a magnificently harmonious ensemble.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The Lux Ermine definitely subscribes to the design doctrine of ‘less is more’. The gold-plated hour and minute hands are lithe and neat, precisely pointing to clear succinct strokes encircling the cream area of the dial. The time is imparted with brevity and eloquence. A small seconds display is positioned in the lower portion of the dial, completing the list of indications.

The case

The Lux Ermine is surprisingly smaller than the Lux Weissgold and Lux Weissgold Hell, measuring 38.5mm x 34mm. I use the word ‘surprisingly’ as I did not readily notice this at the time, nor did I perceive the Lux Ermine looked too small on my larger than average wrist.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Nomos Glashutte Lux Weissgold 

In truth, I find it hard to choose to between the Weissgold and the Ermine, albeit I concede that the latter watch replica would probably prove the safer option in terms of lasting eye-appeal and resale value.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Nomos Glashutte Lux Weissgold 

The Lux Ermine is presented in 18-carat rose gold and features tripartite case construction consisting of bezel, caseband and casback. An exhibition caseback, formed of sapphire crystal, appears to be a facsimile of the lens affixed above the dial. Indeed, wherever the wearer chooses to look, this watch replica exhibits beautiful balance and seemly symmetry.

The movement

The NOMOS caliber DUW 2002 is a hand-wound movement and conforms to horological etiquette with the mainplate following the profile of the case. NOMOS could have taken the simpler and less expensive route of using one of its existing circular movements, but clearly the German watch replica company wanted to create something special and, in my opinion, it has succeeded.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

The finishing of the movement is exemplary with the bevelled edges of the three-quarter plate evincing a brilliant gleam with consistent edges, free of any twisting and distortion. The movement features 23 jewels, five of which are set in gold chatons and retained with thermally blued-screws.

Glashütte ribbing is similar in concept to Côtes de Genève motif. On this Lux Ermine model, the decoration of the three-quarter plate features ‘fine sunbeam polishing’ and resembles Côtes de Genève rayonnantes sometimes found on Swiss watches.

The three-quarter plate is another aspect of the movement design which is widely embraced by prestigious watch replica companies in Glashütte and accords a cleaner appearance to the movement, obviating the need for numerous bridges. Indeed, even if all the text was removed from the dial it would still be possible to ascertain the birthplace of this timepiece.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Perhaps the most charming aspect of the movement is the hand-engraved balance cock. It features the words, ‘Mit Liebe in Glashütte gefertigt’, meaning ‘lovingly produced in Glashütte’. Based on my observations I see little reason to disagree.

Finally, the Lux Ermine is equipped with twin barrels which effectively cooperate to deliver an impressive power reserve of 84 hours.

Closing remarks

Back in 2013, I was surprised when I first heard that NOMOS Glashütte was to produce high-end watches in noble metals. The German brand always seemed to be synonymous with Bauhaus design, manufacture movements and accessible pricing. I recall wondering how the Lux and Lambda models would sit within the existing product portfolio given their much costlier specification.

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

NOMOS Glashuette Lux Ermine - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

However, with time, it has become clear that my concerns were misplaced and the German brand was most definitely correct in its decision to embrace this additional market segment. The Lux and Lambda are stunning watches and since my recent visit to the NOMOS Glashütte Manufactutory, I have often found myself vacillating which between which of these two models I would like to purchase.

Technical Specification

  • Model: NOMOS Glashütte Lux Ermine
  • Ref: 940
  • Case: 18-carat rose gold; dimensions 38.5mm x 34mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds.
  • Movement: DUW 2002, Hand-wound movement; 23 jewels; power reserve 84 hours
  • Strap: Dark brown genuine Shell Cordovan Horween strap presented on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
  • Price: £12400 (RRP as at 7.8.2015)

Thereafter, assuming I erred towards the Lux I would have to consider Ermine or Weissgold. I am left in a state of ambivalence, unsure which model to select. However, one thing is certain, a few moments with the NOMOS Lux Ermine replica watch upon my wrist and I was seduced by this German beauty.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Sickness Small Seconds Grey Dial Replica Watch 101-OEJY

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Inspired by haute couture

Angus Davies recently visited Alexandre Meerson Altitude Sickness replica watch,‘Maison de Style d’Horlogerie’ and discovered a world of obsessive attention to detail and design prowess which promises a lifetime of ownership delight and peerless wearer comfort.Ironically, it was haute couture which piqued my imagination long before haute horlogerie became the focal point of my obsessive character.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

Studying A-levels and maritime studies at Fleetwood Nautical College, I cut a dashing figure in my embroidered waistcoats and block colour clothes. The ritual of visiting the local newsagentand collecting my pre-ordered copy of Harpers & Queen, together with a case of 36 Dime bars, remains a vivid memory indelibly etched on my mind. I often contemplated a career in design, but accepted at an early stage I lacked the necessary talents to ever make it a reality.

I have long since been an admirer of haute couture. This may sound a peculiar admission for a middle-aged heterosexual man to make, but it is true. As a teenager at college, the walls of my student accommodation were adorned with numerous images of incredible male sartorial designs and photographs of dresses cut on the bias.

‘Haute couture’ should never be confused with ‘fashion’. The two are often mentioned in the same breath by the ill-informed but they are two disparate entities.

‘Fashion’ is a disposable commodity which is tossed aside with the arrival of a new season. It is intrinsically obsolete and a marketing tool to encourage repeat purchase. Designs are churned out for the masses and the foolish follow like lemmings, trying to conform to a perceived norm without ever thinking for themselves.

‘Haute couture’ on the other hand is suffused with longevity and individuality. It may evince a classical character or appear avant-garde in nature, but it won’t suffer the indignity of being labelled passé at some future point.

Each magical creation showed the prowess of Christian Dior at accentuating the feminine form and augmenting beauty with clothes which homogeneously fused with the body.A few years ago, I remember attending a Dior exhibition and marvelling at haute couture creations produced for late Audrey Hepburn and Diana, Princess of Wales.

It is the collaborative efforts of the vendeuse, the pattern cutter, the seamstress, the tailor and the designer which results in a matchless garment.The wonder of a ‘haute couture’ is not merely the work of the designer, it is so much more.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

The first aspect I noticed when placing an Alexandre Meerson timepiece on my wrist was the fit. This company clearly understands that ‘touch’ and ‘feel’ are of paramount importance. Every aspect of the case design, strap and pin buckle is designed to accord a sublime union with the wrist as if it were a couture creation made exclusively for its wearer. In some respects, that is not far from the truth. Whilst the case design is serially produced, the client, is contacted post purchase and invited for a ‘fitting’ with an optimally sized strap, provided at no extra cost, in a choice of over 30 skins. Indeed, the notion of bespoke is very much part of the Meerson DNA.

Alexandre Meerson and his eponymously named watch replica company clearly understand the notion of haute couture, something he recently eluded to me during our meeting at the company’s Surrey-based headquarters.

During my visit I was like a child in the proverbial ‘candy store’. An extensive array of models were presented to me, many of which engaged with me. Indeed, over the coming months I suspect I will be returning to the maison to sample more of its wares and review further models

The focal point of this ‘hands-on’ steel Alexandre Meerson watch replica review is the Meerson Altitude Officier Small Seconds Reference 101-OEJY, featuring a graphite dial with small seconds display and paired with a titanium case.

The dial

The dial canvas is a tasteful, muted shade of grey and provides a delightful adjunct to the hands, numerals and case material.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

The hour and minute hands are slender, pointing to the hour markers and railroad minute track with laser-like accuracy. There is no ambiguity, the narrow profile of the hands is eminently logical. However, by making the hands functional, Alexandre Meerson has not eschewed style. Indeed, the hands eloquently communicate with an abundance of seemly style.

The small seconds display residing above 6 o’clock is snailed and completes the inventory of functions presented.

At first glance, the applied rhodium plated hour markers resemble Breguet numerals, however, close examination reveals that this is not actually the case. Meerson is obsessive about details and each numeral has been uniquely designed. Part of the Meerson paradigm is to optimise legibility, not by using a ‘one font fits all’ approach but by creating optimally shaped numerals to aid interpretation.

Alexandre will often sketch ideas in the most unlikely of locations and freely admits to drawing concepts on napkins whilst aboard a plane. His colleague, Laura Aust, a graduate of Massachusetts Institute of Technology, MIT, and Head of Product Development at Alexandre Meerson, distills his ideas and the collaborative duo clearly work well together.

The case

The case is constructed of grade 5 titanium. This premium version of the lightweight material is challenging to polish but the gleaming results speak for themselves. The absence of mass confers greater wearer comfort and the material is hypoallergenic.

The 41mm diameter case should prove appealing to a broad selection of prospective purchasers. It measures a mere 8.59mm in height and sits neatly below the cuff. This latter aspect was of huge importance to the Frenchman. On repeated occasions he would position the cuff of my shirt in such a way as to showcase the lithe profile of the watch. It is this preoccupation with the minutiae that distinguishes Meerson and Aust as obsessive. Indeed, as a sufferer of OCD myself, I felt I had discovered two kindred spirits with their fanatical fussing over the finer points.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Gracing the vertical flank of the knurled crown is the brand’s elaborate logo.

Four screws hold the caseback in position and a pane of sapphire crystal reveals the beautiful movement at work within.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

In addition, I feel I have to make mention of the strap gracing the Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds. It bestows a tender caress of the arm and feels unlike anything I have ever witnessed, including watches with six and even seven figure price tags. The chocolate hued Barenia leather strap not only looked magnificent but proffered wonderful tactility.

The movement

The Meerson movement, Reference AM-4808-A has been produced by the Swiss company, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. This company needs little introduction its exalted reputation is legendary within the watchmaking industry and is partly owned by the Sandoz Family Foundation who also own the high-end brand Parmigiani Fleurier.

Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds 101-OEJY - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

However, it is the finissage of the movement which makes me smile with delight. The oscillating mass is partially open-worked. Initially, I thought there was a greater aperture on the movement revealing golden text on the bridge beneath, however Meerson has actually affixed a small plate to the rotor, adorned with the brand’s nomenclature in golden text. The outcome of this ingenuity is that the name of the maker is always visible but appears to exploit differing depths to comely effect. It is beautiful.

A further aspect of the movement finish which I especially like is the use of Côtes de Genève rayonnantes. This variation on a theme provides a wonderful alternative to the customary Geneva Stripes.

Alexandre chose Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier as they reassuringly attest that 100% of their movements are Swiss made.

The self-winding movement contains 193 parts, includes 28 jewels and a power reserve of 50 hours. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and the movement incorporates two barrels.

Closing remarks

 

Perhaps most interestingly though is that, similar to a haute couture creation, an Alexandre Meerson timepiece is made to optimally fit its wearer and confer a lifetime of ownership delight. Indeed, it is this ambition which makes the ‘Maison de Style d’Horlogerie’ a remarkable company with a bright future.

I am totally smitten with the incredible timepieces made by this young brand and profoundly impressed with the thoroughness and exactitude it practises with each aspect of its operation. The collection of models is extensive and the ambition of the company would suggest there is much more to follow.

 

Technical Specification

  • Model: Alexandre Meerson Altitude Officier small seconds
  • Reference: 101-0EJY
  • Case: Grade 5 titanium; diameter 41.00mm; height 8.59mm; sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; smalll seconds.
  • Movement: AM-4808-A, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz); 28 jewels; power reserve 50 hours.
  • Strap: Chocolate Barenia leather strap, presented on a Grade 5 titanium pin buckle.
  • Price: £8600 (RRP as at 6.7.2015)

Where Alexandre Meerson replica watch truly excels is in his obsessive approach to design and relentless pursuit of perfection. Chatting to him reveals he pursues absolute perfection with near religious zeal, mindful that it is an aspiration which is unachievable, albeit in my opinion he comes remarkably close.

2015 Race Chopard Mille Miglia Red Dial Rose Gold Case Replica Watch

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Handling the power

Angus Davies reviews the 2015 Race Chopard Mille Miglia red dial replica edition, an ebullient variant of the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control, launched earlier this year at Baselworld 2015. This watch replica joins a long line of octane-rich timepieces referencing the Swiss luxury brand’s role as official timekeeper of the iconic 1000 mile race from Brescia to Rome and back.  I have to be honest, she does not seem a natural pilot and I suspect, despite having spent much of my savings on driving lessons, it will remain some time before she is driving alone on Britain’s roads.

 

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

With maturity and understanding I learnt when and how much to actuate the throttle. Skill and wisdom guide the consummate driver to appraise their surroundings, road conditions and weather. The experienced driver makes subtle adjustments to make the most of the power available and in the case of racing drivers, maximise it to championship-winning effect.

I feel compelled to warn my fellow residents of Lancashire that my 18 year-old daughter, Isobel, is learning to drive.

The fact remains that mastering power presents a challenge throughout our lives. Whether this is understanding how to use the power available behind the wheel of a car or managing the power of ‘high office’, keeping perspective and remaining in touch with those we serve. Handling power can often prove challenging and needs to be controlled.

As Isobel recently drove past our lounge window in the driving instructor’s tortured Ford Fiesta, I was reminded of my own shortcomings behind the wheel when I was of a similar age, learning to drive. Indeed, I still recall the days when, owing to a lack of experience, I sat behind the steering wheel and the car would ‘kangaroo’ along the road, highlighting my poor clutch control and inability to deftly apply throttle.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, competing in the Mille Miglia with his wife, Christine Scheufele

 

Chopard clearly understands the notion of power control. The Swiss luxury brand has been the official timekeeper of the legendary Mille Miglia race since 1988. Moreover, it has become a tradition that each year the brand produces a timepiece for the delectation of both participants of the race as well as the general public at large.

This year, Chopard Mille Miglia replica watch has released what is, in my opinion, the finest iteration of the Mille Miglia watch replica ever offered for sale, the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control. The gravitas of my statement should be placed in context. However, placing the latest Mille Miglia GTS Power Control upon my wrist tempted me more than ever into considering acquisition, owing to its profusion of attributes. I have long since been an admirer of the maison’s Mille Miglia branded timepieces and confess to having a strong liking for the Mille Miglia 2014 Race Edition.

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control model – 2015

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control in stainless steel on rubber strap Ref. 168566-3001

– RRP £4290 *

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control in stainless steel on steel bracelet Ref. 158566-3001

– RRP £5330 *

 

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control in 18-carat rose gold on rubber strap Ref. 161296-5001

-RRP £14,450.00 *

 

The Mille Miglia Power Control is available in steel, on a rubber strap or steel bracelet. Alternatively, it is also available in 18-carat rose gold, again on a rubber strap. However, the version which elicits ths most covetous thoughts from my direction is the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition, a limited edition of only 100 pieces in 18-carat rose gold, sporting a vivid ‘Rossa Corsa dial.’ A steel version is also available, limited to 1000 examples.

The dial

A well-conceived watch replica dial allows the wearer to interpret the information presented in the merest of moments. Indeed, this is critical in the ‘heat of battle’, typically experienced in this arduous motorsport competition. The Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition effortlessly elucidates time, proving most helpful to sleep-deprived competitors.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The hour and minute hands are bold, but not excessively so, retaining seemly conduct. The faceted hands are lined with Superluminova, augmenting legibility. Simple, clean batons impart the hours, save for 6 and 12 o’clock where stylised numerals succinctly converse with the wearer.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

A date aperture, located at 3 o’clock, is presented within the Mille Miglia red-arrow race logo. This latter aspect tastefully references the numbers sported on the bonnet and flanks of the competing cars.

Positioned opposite the date aperture is a power reserve indicator, providing the inspiration for the non-limited sibling’s nomenclature. Interestingly, the design of this complication resembles a fuel gauge with automotive design influences in evidence. However, whilst Chopard has repeatedly referenced an octane-fuelled world, the collection of models do not look unduly contrived or forced with everything harmoniously coalescing to handsome effect.

The case

This model is evidently bulkier than some of the lithe offerings within the Chopard L.U.C collection but, in this instance, the watch replica is intended for a different audience.The case of the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition shares the same dimensions as the non-limited Mille Miglia GTS Power Control with the case measuring 43mm in diameter and 11.43mm in height. Indeed, an aspect I appreciate with Chopard is that each family of models has its own character and yet, irrespective of the persona portrayed, they all share the same excellent engineering integrity.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The caseback and black calfskin Barenia strap interface with the wrist superbly. Clearly, the talented design team at Chopard, led by Guy Bove, has once again expended much effort on the ergonomics and their efforts are vindicated by the matchless comfort proffered.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Positioned within the bezel is a ‘graduated’ black aluminium insert, indicative of the exacting design process. It would have been simple to have incorporated one uniform shade of black, but the protracted pursuit of perfection by Bove is clear to see.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Symbols of motoring abound on the Mille Miglia collection including the non-limited GTS Power Control. It is not surprising, therefore, that the watch replica company has chosen to equip the model with an exhibition caseback, revealing the engine within.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Movement

Talking of ‘engines’, Chopard has equipped the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition with its own in-house movement, the Calibre 01-08-C, made in its Fleurier Ebauches workshops in the Val-de-Travers area.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

 

Despite the relatively modest asking price of this watch, Chopard has not eschewed quality and as a result, the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition should confer years of owner enjoyment.

A few years ago I toured the Fleurier Ebauches workshops  and was profoundly impressed. Chopard has clearly invested a significant amount of money in the facility, embracing modern technology to deliver incredible quality timepieces at remarkably affordable prices. Furthermore, the Calibre 01.08C is a chronometer, certified by the COSC.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Chopard L.U.C models harness a higher quotient of hand finishing and, in my opinion, these watches rival the finest exemplars of haute horlogerie. However, those watches made at the nearby Chopard Manufacture are justifiably more costly to acquire. Fleurier Ebauches provides greater customer choice through more accessible pricing, which can’t be a bad thing. Furthermore, the positioning of those timepieces equipped with Fleurier Ebauches movements places high quality, in-house movements within the financial grasp of some would-be buyers who previously could only dream of owning a watch replica of this calibre.

Closing remarks

Alternatively, for a small price premium would-be buyers may wish to consider the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition.Clearly, the construction of a case in 18-carat gold is reflected in the asking price of £14,670* and may prove beyond the means of some prospective purchasers. However, the relatively modest asking price of the Mille Miglia GTS Power Control in steel with rubber strap at £4290* delivers a plethora of virtues at a remarkably competitive price.

The watches are imbued with superb styling, magnificent mechanical integrity and excellent ergonomics.Regular readers of ESCAPEMENT will know that I am a huge advocate for the work of Chopard.

The Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition builds on this reputation and demonstrates the company’s commitment to continuous improvement and the persuit of perfection.

Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Jacky Ickx, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Karl Scheufele 

However, as my wife will attest, I have never shied away from spending and, money no object, I would have to select the Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition in 18-carat rose gold. The blend of the Rosso Corsa dial with the warm, sumptuous case material and the towering tactility of the black Barenia leather strap confer a seductive blend of attributes I would find difficult to argue against.

* Prices as at 9.7.2015

Technical Specification

  • Model: Chopard Mille Miglia 2015 Race Edition
  • Reference: 161296-5002
  • Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 43.00 mm; height 11.43 mm; water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; power-reserve indicator; date.
  • Movement: Chopard 01.08-C, self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 40 jewels; power reserve 60 hours.
  • Strap / Bracelet: Black calfskin Barenia leather presented on a 18-carat rose gold folding clasp
  • Price: £14,670 (RRP as at 9.7.2015)

Chopard is known for being a vertically integrated company, with extensive experience making cases, movements, bracelets etc. It is this power which has allowed it to control its destiny and create watches of exceptional renown. Perhaps it is this ability to handle power that makes the Chopard replica Mille Miglia GTS Power Control a wonderful metaphor for a company at the vanguard of horological design.

Top Quality Grand Seiko Diashock Automatic Rose Gold Replica Watch

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1967, a great year?

Grand Seiko produce timepieces for the discerning Grand Seiko Diashock Automatic watch replica collector. The company’s loyal clientele continuously await the release of new models and this recreation of the original 62GS of 1967 proved to be no exception. Angus Davies reviews the limited edition SBGR094, a much sought after timepiece presented in luxurious 18-carat rose gold. Conversely, my mother would attest that it was a fabulous year, she gave birth to her only child, a beautiful boy, albeit my long suffering wife may well dispute this point of view.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Apparently when it comes to Bordeaux, 1967 was not considered a great year.

 

The original 62GS was released in 1967 and exhibited a fascinating fusion of sharp and rounded surfaces. At Baselworld 2015, Grand Seiko released four versions, each replicating the appearance of the original 62GS and equipped with 4 Hz movements. One version is delivered in stainless steel, while three further models are offered in luxurious shades of 18-carat gold.

At Baselworld 2013, the Japanese watch replica company released a re-issue of its iconic ‘Self Dater’ of 1964, the 44GS. The response among Grand Seiko’s loyal clientele was phenomenal and the watches sold like proverbial hot cakes.

Now, Grand Seiko is celebrating its 55th anniversary and has once again looked to its back catalogue for inspiration. It has masterfully played the nostalgia card, releasing a faithful re-creation of its first ever self-winding watch, the 62GS.

Grand Seiko has also released four contemporary ‘re-interpretations’ of the 1967. Two of these 18-carat gold Grand Seiko replica watches are equipped with Seiko’s Hi-Beat 36000 movement (Calibre 9S85) and two models contain the company’s supremely accurate Spring Drive movement (Calibre 9R65). Over the coming months, I hope to be able to get on personal terms with these watches and report my findings in minute detail. However, on this occasion, the focal point of my attention is the ‘re-creation’ of the 1967 original, limited to 100 pieces and presented in an 18-carat rose gold.

The dial

Sometimes it seems cream, whereas, other times it appears almost ashen. The visual contradistinction is spectacular and the warmth of the hour markers and hands is very appealing. By contrast, the baton-like hour markers stand proud of the dial surface, resplendently pushing forward their chests with golden-hued pride.The appearance of the dial changes depending on the prevailing light.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

This is a welcome trait, with all of Grand Seiko watches known for their eminent readability.Beyond the attractiveness of the dial detail, functionality is not overlooked and everything appears supremely legible. The tips of all three hands point with laser-like accuracy to the relevant hour markers and neat markings adorning the periphery of the dial. This latter aspect, the chapter ring, sits lower than the adjacent dial surface, further sweetening the delicious taste of the dial presented.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The finest watch replica designs always exploit depths to sublime effect. Depth is a key means of imbuing a dial with a sense of luxury. This fact is not lost on Grand Seiko and has been masterfully utilised with the date aperture. Moreover, the date aperture, together with the hour markers, feature chamfered facets which grab parcels of light and refract small sparkling flourishes to proceedings. It is this attention to detail which has led to legions of fans, myself included, to excitedly await each new model released bearing the ‘GS’ moniker.

The case

The crown of the original watch replica was located at 4 o’clock to denote that the timepiece was self-winding, obviating the need for regular hand-to-crown interaction.Admiring the case of the SBGR094, I note a myriad of period details which have been lovingly recreated. This has been adopted for this latest watch.

Regular readers of ESCAPEMENT will know that I favour larger case sizes due to my own genetic make-up, but surprisingly this watch replica appeared larger on the wrist than I would have anticipated.

Furthermore, the depth of the watch replica has also increased a tad to 12.9mm (formerly 11.4mm), but still appears slender when placed upon the arm. However, by today’s standards, the scale of this watch replica remains comparitively restrained, eschewing the portly appearance of some contemporary watches.The diameter of the 62 GS SBGR094 is sympathetic to the 1960s, but is marginally larger at 37.6mm than the original 1967 model.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The intricately formed case features numerous facets and evinces a lustrous shine from a myriad of surfaces. It is incredibly complex and will no-doubt have presented numerous challenges to the case-making team. The feel of the case delivers a silk-like smoothness and is the result of the brand’s legendary ‘Zaratsu’ polishing, practised by skilled artisans.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

I normally crave the inclusion of an exhibition caseback, especially when I know that the watch replica contains a magnificently finished movement. In this instance, I accept Grand Seiko’s decision to feature a solid caseback sporting the brand’s nomen, together with a lion motif presented in relief. This is to sate the desires of traditionalists and looks glorious. Nevertheless, as I will come to later, there is a slight pang of sadness that the gloriously finished movement within cannot be seen.

The movement

The Caliber 9S65 is a self-winding movement of which I am familiar. I reviewed the SBGR061 some time ago and recall seeing the movement of this watch replica via its exhibition caseback. It is beautiful.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Last year, while visiting the various production facilities of Grand Seiko in Japan, I was enchanted by the sight of the Caliber 9S65 and the Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85. These movements feature open-worked oscillating masses and blemish free, bevelled bridges, proving magnificent to behold.

Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094 - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Grand Seiko Caliber 9S85

The frequency of the 9S65 is 28,800 vph (4 Hertz) or, as Grand Seiko prefers to say, 8 beats per second. Theoretically, this does not confer the same degree of stability as the Hi-Beat movements but with a stated daily variation of +5 to -3 seconds, it remains a very accurate watch.

Despite my earlier comment that I like the solid caseback, there is still a part of me which feels a sense of melancholy at the prospect of being denied the splendiferous view of the naked Caliber 9S65.

Closing remarks

My 16 year-old son has discovered ‘The Beatles’ and plays old vinyl records in his bedroom with the volume set at ear-splitting levels. He is fascinated by the notion of the ‘Swinging Sixties’.

My mother’s generation talk about the period with a sense of fondness. The British Prime Minister, Harold McMillan may have famously said in 1957 that ‘most of our people have never had it so good’, but on reflection the same statement could well have been applied to the lives of many living in the 1960s.

I accept that nostalgia can lead us to look at the past with rose-tinted glasses and concede that clearly some events have blemished periods in our history. However, based on the absolute beauty of the 1967 62GS, it is clear that the swinging motion of its balance wheel oscillating to a frequency of 8 beats a second is a wonderful metaphor for the upbeat mood of the period.

 

Technical Specification

  • Model: Grand Seiko 62GS SBGR094
  • Ref: SBGR094
  • Case: 18-carat rose gold; diameter 37.6mm; height 12.9mm; water resistant to 10 bar (100 metres) sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; central sweep seconds; date.
  • Movement: Calibre 9S65, Self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 35 jewels; power reserve 72 hours
  • Strap: Brown crocodile leather strap supplied on an 18-carat rose gold pin buckle
  • Price: €16,050 (RRP as at 13.8.2015)
  • Limited Edition: 100 pieces

Where Grand Seiko has, in my opinion, usurped the original 62GS is by introducing the SBGR094 with its noble case. Indeed, the choice of rose gold seems more befitting for this regal timepiece. It exudes luxury but always exhibits seemly behaviour and notable decorum. Indeed, based on this evidence, 2015 may well be another vintage year for mens fake Grand Seiko watch.

Choose The Cheap Classic Girard-Perregaux Three Bridges Neo-Tourbillon Copy Watch

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Girard-Perregaux has long been associated with its iconic pocket watch replica of 1860, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges replica watch. In 2014, the maison released the Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges, a very modern timepiece which referenced the past, but with its avant-garde styling had its sights firmly set on the future. Angus Davies reviews this interesting example of high-end watchmaking.As Isobel departs the relative safety of our home, new opportunities await her. She will become immersed in an unfamiliar world, doused in fresh water, taken from an alternative font of knowledge, and exposed to new experiences she has never sampled before.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The very notion of change is not without risk. Just as in nature, we have to accept that our young have to leave the nest and find their own way in the world. Risk is inextricably linked with this change, but to quote Pierre Corneille, ‘To conquer without risk is to triumph without glory’.

The time has come to wave my daughter goodbye and wish her well as she embarks on five years of study at university. It signals a new period in her life.

It is this suggestion of risk which came to mind when I first saw the Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges at Baselworld 2014. Its bold aesthetics are quite distinctive and, on the face of it, eschew tradition in favour of modernity.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Girard-Perregaux is very much part of the watchmaking establishment having an enviable history harking back to 1791. Part of its rich history is the company’s legendary Tourbillon with Girard-Perregaux Three Gold Bridges replica watch, first produced in pocket watch replica form in 1860 and the recipient of a first class award from the Observatory of the Canton of Neuchâtel.

Its movement was memorable because of its high precision and the three parallel bridges, visible via its hinged caseback. Two of these bridges spanned the spring barrel and tourbillon carriage, a trait which has continued to feature on numerous versions since.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

A contemporary version of the iconic Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges

Nevertheless, in recent years, Girard-Perregaux has shown it is not afraid of taking risks. A perfect illustration of this was the release of the wonderful and groundbreaking Constant Escapement L.M. The ingenuity of this timepiece was widely recognised and the watch replica gained the ultimate accolade by winning the GPHG ‘Aiguille d’Or’ in 2013.

The Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges of 1860 is very much part of the company’s DNA. To risk its legacy and the maison’s reputation for tradition may, at first glance, have appeared foolhardy.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Girard-Perregaux Constant Escapement L.M

By venturing off piste with the thoroughly modern Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges, Girard-Perregaux showed incredible bravery. However, was this courage misplaced? In my opinion, not a bit of it. The bravery shown in creating this timepiece has resulted in a stunning watch replica and when presented with the opportunity to get ‘hands-on’ with this exemplar of modern haute horlogerie, I grasped the chance with both hands.

In 2014, when the company released its contemporary iteration of the maison’s most famous watch, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, it may well have proved a step too far for its loyal clientele.

The dial

Part of the allure of the Three Gold Bridges has always been the way the volumes of components are accentuated. By creating a three-dimensional quality to the aesthetics, the wearer is drawn ever closer to the dial and invited to examine each surface in minute detail.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The bridges of the Neo-Tourbillon are radically different from those found on other watches from the manufacture based in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It is widely used in the aerospace industry where these attributes are highly prized. Titanium offers the strength of steel but is 45% lighter. They are made from titanium and brim with modernity.

The result is a sense of lightness and an airy appearance.Whilst the design language of the bridges is very different from the styling employed on the forebears of the Neo-Tourbillon, they continue to exploit the same notion of ‘volume’. The bridges are skeletonised with a tear-shaped section appearing to have been hollowed from their form.

The Swiss watch replica company has clearly overcome this issue and the result is three stunning bridges, beautifully presented. Apparently, one of the challenges in executing these bridges is preventing the deformation of the lightweight structures during the manufacturing process.Girard-Perregaux has clearly had to overcome technical obstacles in order to realise the bridges.

The visual connection with the pocket watch replica of 1860 is clear to see. Three bridges span the dial surface which is also the underside of the mainplate. The mainplate is treated with ruthenium anthracite and sandblasted, exhibiting a muted grey tone and contrasting brilliantly with the black bridges.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The barrel drum resides below noon. It is adorned with the maker’s coveted name and the word, ‘Automatic’, making reference to the convenience accorded by the self-winding movement.

Floating above the centrally positioned bridge are the hour and minutes hands. They are open-worked and feature the same ‘oval-shaped cut’ present at the tip of each tourbillon bridge. These gold coloured hands are incredibly stylish and communicate time in a delightfully poetic manner.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The tourbillon cage is made of titanium and consists of 80 components, yet has a total mass of only 0.25 grams. This lightweight characteristic proves helpful, parsimoniously consuming energy and, by default, ensuring a healthy power-reserve of at least 60 hours. The tourbillon is equipped with a small seconds hand and makes one complete revolution every 60 seconds.

The lower bridge plays host to the tourbillon cage. Girard-Perregaux has, once again, referenced the past by equipping the Neo-Tourbillon with a ‘lyre-shaped’ cage. I confess, I did not know what ‘lyre-shaped’ meant prior to writing this artilce. However, after a spot of research, I agree the terminology employed by the maison seems very apt in describing the resemblance to a U-shaped harp, often played in Ancient Greece.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Seldom does a dial demand so much explanation, however, rarely does a dial proffer so many exquisite details to convey.

Interestingly, the tourbillon shows that Girard-Perregaux has not eschewed Swiss craftsmanship. The tourbillon employs high-end finishing synonymous with haute horlogerie, including bevelled edges. Moreover, the elevated specification extends to a screwed balance wheel equipped with gold regulating screws and a balance spring featuring a Philips terminal curve.

The case

The scale of the Neo-Tourbillon is significant, measuring 45mm in diameter with a case height of 14.45mm. The use of traditional 18-carat pink gold provides a divergence in character which somehow complements the neoteric persona of the dial treatment. This ying and yang design approach works wonderfully.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Further to the launch of the Neo-Tourbillon at Baselworld 2014, Girard-Perregaux launched a second version in a DLC titanium case. Whilst this younger sibling is handsome, I don’t feel it has the same visual impact of its older, nobler brother resplendently presented in 18-carat pink gold.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges, DLC titanium case (Ref. 99270-21-000-BA6A)

The case masterfully blends polished and satin-finished surfaces. Nothing appears excessive, but likewise there is sufficient warmth to invite amorous tactile encounters.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

In relation to the case, the pièce de résistance has to be the design of the glass-box sapphire crystal. The Neo-Tourbillon shuns a conventional bezel. Instead, the sapphire crystal proffers a wide-screen view which nearly traverses the full diameter of the case.

The profile of the sapphire crystal is slightly domed at the centre. As the caseband arcs downwards towards the lugs, an increasing portion of the lateral surfaces of the sapphire crystal can be seen. These in turn accord the wearer with an alternative and fascinating view of the bridges and tourbillon at play. This design element is ingenious and allows the observer to appreciate the ‘added-value’ imparted to the Neo-Tourbillon. Indeed, if this was my watch, I could easily envisage spending much time exploring each facet of the timepiece’s composition with loupe in hand. Quite simply, this watch replica grants numerous fascinating views to enjoy.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The movement

When the Girard-Perregaux GP09400 caliber was launched at Baselworld 2014 it represented a new chapter in the history of the company. This calibre, whilst doffing its hat to the original Three Bridges movement, wa totally redesigned.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

A micro-rotor is positioned directly below the barrel drum, located at noon and is constructed of white gold.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The maison has also enlarged the barrel drum, equipping the GP09400 caliber with a larger mainspring which helps augment the power reserve. The barrel drum dispenses with customary teeth and instead a gear is placed above it in order to transmit energy to the geartrain. Interestingly, this gear is skeletonised, and features six angled spokes, a trait it shares with other gears on the movement.

Whilst modernity is the dish of the day, Girard-Perregaux has not forgotten to include some of its favourite ingredients. For example, the gears are circular grained, engraved and beveled. The aforementioned bridges on the dial may appear modern, but they still feature bevelled and hand-drawn edges.

Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Spanning the rear of the movement, and clearly visible via the exhibition caseback, is an arrow-shaped bridge, presented in black and, once again, repeats the ‘shape of a lyre’. The watchmaking company continues to draw on inspiration from the past and suffuse various historical details into this thoroughly modern movement.

Closing remarks

It is very easy to become comfortable, residing in a cosseting bubble and avoiding potential risks. However, progress demands experimenting, taking chances, sampling new technologies and embracing new experiences.

This is the advice I freely provided my daughter last weekend as we discussed the future which awaits her. She will no doubt have to venture outside of her ‘comfort zone’ and strive to form friendships with other students from diverse backgrounds.

 

Technical Specification

  • Model: Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges
  • Reference: 99270-52-000-BA6A
  • Case: 18-carat Pink gold; diameter 45.00mm; height 14.45mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres); sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds on tourbillon
  • Movement: GP-9400-0001, self-winding movement; frequency 21,600 vph (3 Hz); 35 jewels; power reserve minimum 60 hours; 245 parts.
  • Strap: Black alligator leather strap, presented on an 18-carat pink folding buckle.
  • Price: Price on Application

It is when I look at the Girard-Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges I am reminded of the advice I have imparted to my daughter. The Swiss watch replica company has taken risks, but in so doing, it has created a stunning Girard-Perregaux watch replica which deserves success. It masterfully fuses the optimism of modernity with the wisdom of the past and by embracing change, Girard-Perregaux has, once again, shown it is at the vanguard of haute horlogerie.

Swiss Made Patek Philippe Complications Chronograph Replica Watch Ref. 5170J-001

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Finger on the pulse

Angus Davies recently visited Berry’s in Leeds, an authorised stockist of Swiss Made Patek Philippe Complications Chronograph replica watch, and felt his heart quicken as he held the Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph in his hands. Angus reviews this watch, describing its impressive specification in minute detail.However, it has also remained faithful to watchmaking tradition and respected horological etiquette, imbuing its timepieces with a notable degree of high-end finishing.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

I have always adored chronographs. The complication proves very useful in everyday life and the breathtaking complexity, with a commensurately high part count, never fails to impress me. Moreover, I also adore the physical interaction between the wearer and the watch, conferred with the pushpieces which are typically located on the easterly flank of the case.

Throughout Patek Philippe’s 175 year history, the company has always retained its ‘finger on the pulse’. This prestigious maison, which occupies the highest echelons of haute horlogerie, has masterfully kept in step with the desires of the most discerning clientele.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Ref. 5170J-001

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 copy watch was first introduced in 2010 and features the hand-wound Caliber 29-535 PS. This timepiece was initially presented in 18-carat yellow gold. In 2013, the maison launched an 18-carat white gold variant, the Ref. 5170G-001, equipped with a silvery-white dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Ref. 5170G-001

5170J-001. I know the retailer well and was promptly invited to try on the watch replica for size. I felt my heart quicken at the very prospect and did not need to use the pulsimeter to gauge the magnitude of my excitement. There, sat resplendently in a display cabinet, was a yellow gold Patek Philippe Ref.Recently, I visited Berry’s, an authorised Patek Philippe retailer, located in the architecturally fascinating Victoria Quarter of Leeds, West Yorkshire.

These watches feature a scale adorning the periphery of the dial, calibrated in such a way that the chronograph seconds hand is stopped after the patient’s heart beats for the 15th time. The patient’s pulse can be accurately determined by reading the prevailing value denoted, in this instance, by black Arabic numerals marked adjacent a railroad minute track. This complication allows the wearer, in conjunction with the central chronograph seconds hand, to determine the number of heartbeats per minute.Both watches feature a pulsimeter.

The dial

The dial canvas is a sea of seemly opaline silver. The chosen hue provides a tasteful foil for the black text printed on the dial.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Applied Roman numerals feature at 6 o’clock and noon with the other hours denoted with applied yellow gold batons. Both the numerals and batons are slender in profile imparting a sense of grace to proceedings.

A black oxidised central chronograph hand spans the dial radius. It features a counter-balance but, more pertinently, the elongated tip is lithe in form, pointing to values on the minute track and pulsimeter scale with laser-like precision. Interestingly, Patek Philippe has somehow attained two mutually exclusive goals, namely functionality and style.

The baton-style hour and minutes are presented in 18-carat gold and succinctly communicate with the wearer.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

This hand instantaneously jumps after each measured minute has elapsed, bestowing a sense of precision.A 30-minute chronograph register is positioned at 3 o’clock and employs a black hand in common with the central chronograph seconds hand.

In the upper portion of the dial, the famous watch replica company’s nomenclature and place of origin are proudly proclaimed, an appellation which justifiably confers peace of mind.

Positioned at 9 o’clock, a small seconds display resides. It shares the same scale as the subdial opposite, and in common with its nearby sibling, eschews snailed detail in favour of a chaste, pure complexion. One element which is clearly different is the hue of the baton-style hand which is presented in gleaming 18-carat yellow gold.

The bi-compax layout of the dial proffers an agreeable symmetry.Offered a choice between tri-compax or bi-compax dial displays, I would always favour the latter. 5170J-001 again, appeals to my sensibilities. In this regard, the Patek Philippe Ref.

The case

The 18-carat yellow gold case has not featured in Patek Philippe’s catalogue since 2013 which, in my opinion, is a shame as the combination of the warm case material, innocent temperament of the dial and the rich brown shade of the strap collaborate to provide an eye-catching ensemble. Nevertheless, as my experience shows there remains a limited number of unsold examples in official stockists.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

By adopting the strategy of discontinuing models, Patek Philippe perpetuates demand. Indeed, when the Genevan watch replica company ceases to produce certain models, values of well-loved, pre-owned examples have a tendency to rise.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

I know some collectors who choose to invest in sought after timepieces, urge the retailer to leave said watch replica in its hermetically sealed packaging and secrete these to a bank safety deposit box. I have to be honest, I cannot relate to such behaviour.

I liken a Patek Philippe, or indeed any high-end watch, to a bottle of fine wine. A bottle of Château Haut-Brion should be opened, allowed to breathe and enjoyed. Likewise, with so much skill and time-served craftsmanship wonderfully imparted to a Patek Philippe, it should be worn and appreciated.

Returning to the matter of the Ref. 5170J-001, its case is cold pressed from a small ingot of gold, heated to ‘relieve internal stresses’, deburred and subject to repeated polishing using successively finer abrasives. The resultant outcome is a blemish-free, mirror-polished case.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The watch replica has a diameter of 39.4mm and a restrained height of 10.90mm. I use the word, ‘restrained’ to describe the depth of the Ref. 5170J-001. It wouldn’t be labelled ultra-thin, but it does exhibit elegant proportions. Moreover, in reality, its height, does not seem as great when worn on the wrist. I suspect that this is because the caseband is relatively shallow in profile and part of the depth of the watch replica can be attributed to the bevelled caseback. Indeed, the dorsal area of the Ref. 5170J-001 nestles within the fleshy part of the wrist, effectively causing the watch replica to sit flusher with the arm.

Whenever, I try a watch replica on my wrist for the first time I flex my wrist and look for any protrusions which will inhibit free movement of the wrist. On occasion, I have found bulbous pushpieces or over-sized crowns caused chafing of the arm. Patek Philippe has fitted a generously sized crown which proves simple to adjust, but does not rub against the arm or inhibit the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Furthermore, the pushpiece remains optimally sized, appearing neither too large nor too small. Indeed, every element of the design language synergistically fuses into one cohesive creation.

Admiring each element of this watch, each component is clearly the result of protracted consideration.

The pushpieces are rectangular in form and feature rounded-corners. The protruding sections of the pushpieces, which sit perpendicular to the caseband, are satin-brushed and accord an attractive contrast.

The movement

I own a few hand-wound watches and confess, with slight embarrassment, that I savour the daily ritual of winding them. In the frenetic pace of modern life, there is something cathartic, being at one with your watch, taking time out and winding it gently. It is a small snapshot of time when I pause, reflect and connect with my watch. Indeed, I can even sense when it does not feel quite the same, perhaps indicating a service is due or a more serious problem is manifest.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The Patek Philippe is equipped with the Caliber CH 29-535 PS sating my horological fetish for manual watches. In addition, the fitment of an exhibition caseback indulges another innate foible I possess, horological voyeurism. Examining the reverse of the watch replica reveals many of the 269 movement parts, pristinely presented in spellbinding glory.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

The architecture of the Caliber CH 29-535 PS reminds me of many traditional movements of yesteryear. This is not a criticism, quite the contrary, I adore the unhindered view of the snailed gears. I also appreciate the pared back bridge work which allows the wearer to see the balance and levers at play.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Whilst the bridges are small, they exhibit sublime finishing. The anglage is exceptional with interior angles exhibiting smooth, sweeping lines and betraying no hint of hand-applied files. Close examination reveals the bevels are free of any distortion or twisting, everything is delivered in blemish-free brilliantly gleaming form.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

This is a fully integrated calibre, controlled by a column wheel and horizontal clutch. One area where I am left a tad frustrated is that the column wheel resides beneath a polished cap. I enjoy seeing the levers interface with the pillars of a column wheel and was sad to be denied this view. However, in Patek Philippe’s defence, there is a good reason for fitting the cap above the column wheel, it ‘secures the chronograph levers in their positions’ and, in so doing, prevents them being displaced or damaged even in the event of ‘sharp jolts’.

The Caliber CH 29-535 PS is intended for connoisseurs of fine watchmaking and perusing the specification I never cease discovering other highlights which impart joy.

The balance is the ‘four-arm Gyromax’ type. The four poising weights are positioned in-board to mitigate disruption to the airflow and thereby enhancing the accuracy of the watch. Furthermore, the balance spring features a Breguet overcoil, further improving precision.

Closing remarks

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph is a purist’s choice. It appeals to me on a myriad of levels. Its design is beautiful, its execution is top drawer and its functionality is superb.

Sat in Berry’s at Leeds, I was mindful that I did not want to outstay my welcome. However, thankfully the experienced staff present were able to readily spot a watch replica addict and patiently listened to my incessant praise for this splendiferous timepiece.

Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph - watch replica review by ESCAPEMENT

Ref. 5170G-010

However, where this latest iteration of the Ref. 5170 treads new ground is by eschewing the pulsimeter scale and, in so doing, delivering a cleaner, crisper dial.

Nevertheless, as a middle-aged gentleman who perhaps indulges a smidgen too much in rich food and full-bodied reds, I can see the wisdom of owning a watch replica equipped with a pulsimeter. Indeed, this may well be the ideal watch replica to enable me to keep my finger on the pulse.

Technical Specification

  • Model: Patek Philippe Ref. 5170J-001 Chronograph
  • Ref: 5170J-001
  • Case: 18-carat yellow gold; diameter 39.4mm; height 10.90mm; water resistant to 3 bar (30 metres) sapphire crystal to front and caseback.
  • Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds; chronograph with instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter
  • Movement: Caliber CH 29-535 PS, Hand-wound movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4Hz); 33 jewels; power reserve 65 hours; 269 components
  • Strap: Matt-brown alliagtor leather strap supplied on an 18-carat yellow gold fold-over clasp
  • Price: Price on application

Acknowledgement

I would like to thank Berry’s Jewellers, for kindly providing access to this remarkable timepiece.

Earlier this year, at Baselworld, Patek Philippe released a further variant of the Ref. 5170, the Ref. 5170G-010. It shares the 18-carat white gold case of the Ref. 5170G-001 but employs an ebony black dial upon which its indications are presented. In common with the Patek Philippe replica watch Ref. 5170G-001, Roman numerals and batons have been supplanted with gold applied Breguet numerals.